Tactical

Competition climbers might want to lunge to hang a hold or in the case of bouldering climb modern parkour-esque problems

This is about long and short-term planning, where you want to try and arrive at the bottom of the route or routes you want to climb at the right time for you, your fitness and the conditions on the route.

Whether you are bouldering or repointing hard routes you need to be resting the appropriate length of time between goes, will help you climb at your max for longer.

Knowing when to shake out and even how long to do it for on a route can be a lot harder to determine than you might think.

While we can learn a lot from watching someone climb a route, this is also about utilising modern online sources of information and your friends to gain an advantage over the routes you aspire to.

Selecting what gear or even rope systems you take on a route may seem like a very simple tactic, but it is one that will save you energy and help lead to improvements.

This section looks at the tactics you can employ to help you redpoint the hardest routes you can climb.

This section looks at tactics to employ to help you onsight a climb.

The ability to quickly identify possible gear placements and then choose the right piece of gear first time, all whilst placing it from an optimal position will save you energy.

Even express can occasionally fluff clipping the rope into the quickdraw when they are leading, if this is on the crux you could lose vital seconds correcting it.