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iCoach Climbing

Fingerboard Training Guide (II). Maximal grip Strength and Endurance Methods and Load Training management

23 May 2018 | 8:52 am BST

Versión en españolI. The current state of affairs: Preliminary EvaluationThis topic was addressed in the first part of this series. You can read it here.II. Methodology2.1. Naming Conventions and Training MethodsIn case you aren’t aware of the terminology we will explain it through examples of each method.2.1.1. Maximal dead hangs on the minimum edge depth (MED hangs), no added weight.3-5 x MED Hangs x 5”-15” (1-5) :3’-5’EXAMPLE: 2 x MED Hangs  x 12” (3) :3’The first number (2) indicates the number of sets; after the “x” we write the name of the method or protocol and exercise (MED = minimum edge depth; Hangs = dead [...read more]

Source: http://en-eva-lopez.blogspot.com/2018/05/fingerboard-training-guide-II-Maxhangs-SubHangs-and-Inthangs-methodology.html

Edge Hangboard

4 Dec 2017 | 9:14 pm GMT

I’ve just added the Edge hangboard to the shop. I’m excited to see this hangboard released which I’ve collaborated with Edgy Climbing Holds to design. I’ve used wooden fingerboards for 12 or 13 years and they propelled my standard in climbing beyond what I imagined they could (more on this below). So despite being on the face of it an extremely simple device, it is hard to overstate their importance in climbing training. I’d call fingerboards and fingerboarding the core exercise and equipment for strength in climbing. Something every climber ought to have in their home and use year round.My [...read more]

Source: http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/TrainingForClimbingBlog/~3/OQkcLt6r_10/edge-hangboard.html

New workshop 27/01/2018! Making the Most of Your Winter Indoors

3 Nov 2017 | 9:01 pm GMT

I’ll be back from maternity leave in January 2018 and we are kicking off with a new workshop run jointly with Performance Coach John Kettle.  We’ll be helping you develop a physical and mental training plan for you to use over the winter months, to put you in a great position to start your summer [...read more]

Source: http://smartclimbing.co.uk/?p=445