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iCoach Climbing

Fingerboard Training Guide (III). Program design and Periodization of MaxHangs, IntHangs and SubHangs. Samples of MaxHangs training programs

5 Jul 2018 | 8:52 am BST

Versión en españolPrevious entries:I. Dead-hangs training guide. Preliminary evaluation.The first blog entry in this series. If you need a refresher, here it is.II. Methodology The methods, naming conventions and load management were the topic of the second post. You can find it here.III. PeriodizationToday’s content. What most people are waiting for, right? I’m sure you are eager to get to the meat of it and have your questions answered:• how many days per week do I work my dead-hangs?• is it better at the start, the middle or the end of the session?• what method do I use, with[out] added weight, [...read more]

Source: http://en-eva-lopez.blogspot.com/2018/07/fingerboard-training-guide-iii-periodization-samples-of-maxhangs-training-programs-.html

Edge Hangboard

4 Dec 2017 | 9:14 pm GMT

I’ve just added the Edge hangboard to the shop. I’m excited to see this hangboard released which I’ve collaborated with Edgy Climbing Holds to design. I’ve used wooden fingerboards for 12 or 13 years and they propelled my standard in climbing beyond what I imagined they could (more on this below). So despite being on the face of it an extremely simple device, it is hard to overstate their importance in climbing training. I’d call fingerboards and fingerboarding the core exercise and equipment for strength in climbing. Something every climber ought to have in their home and use year round.My [...read more]

Source: http://feedproxy.google.com/~r/TrainingForClimbingBlog/~3/OQkcLt6r_10/edge-hangboard.html

New workshop 27/01/2018! Making the Most of Your Winter Indoors

3 Nov 2017 | 9:01 pm GMT

I’ll be back from maternity leave in January 2018 and we are kicking off with a new workshop run jointly with Performance Coach John Kettle.  We’ll be helping you develop a physical and mental training plan for you to use over the winter months, to put you in a great position to start your summer [...read more]

Source: http://smartclimbing.co.uk/?p=445