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Sun 24 Sep 2017

Welcome to the Coaching Resource Library, the articles link to pages outside of iCoach Climbing, wherever possible that is to the original online source of the article. You can help us by adding article that are of use for anyone training to climber harder or coaching climbign via the submissions page. This is the start of the library, and as it develops I will add many ways to explore the content that is contributed. The next development is to link the content dynamically to the performance profile. This means you'll get some articles to read to help you work on you performance needs.

Voting on articles and comments will be added in the future, at present these are rating the contributor has added. We will also add who contributed the article.

Training

The physical side of climbing perfomance and general fitness

Blog Posts

An introduction to Interval Training for Power Endurance - link

Rating:3/5 No. Votes:1

Overcoming Injury: A Psychological Perspective - link

Rating:4/5 No. Votes:1

The Stretching Debate - link

Rating:4/5 No. Votes:1

Overload - link

Rating:3/5 No. Votes:1

Cross Training for Climbing Fitness - link

Rating:3/5 No. Votes:1

Weight Loss - link

Rating:3/5 No. Votes:1

BMC/UIAA advice of Campus Board for Youngsters - link

Rating:4/5 No. Votes:1

How to detect overtraining? - link

Rating:5/5 No. Votes:1

Online Videos

Sean McColl Training Video -

Rating:5/5 No. Votes:1

adidas Outdoor: Shauna Coxsey on Warming Up -

Rating:3/5 No. Votes:1

adidas Outdoor: Shauna Coxsey on Conditioning -

Rating:4/5 No. Votes:1

Wild Country Steep Board Training - Part 1 - Basics -

Rating:4/5 No. Votes:1

Wild Country - Steep Board Training - Part 2 - Advanced -

Rating:4/5 No. Votes:1

How To Climb Harder: Basic Training #1: Warming Up - Boulder -

Rating:4/5 No. Votes:1

How To Climb Harder: Basic Training #2: Intro to peg board -

Rating:4/5 No. Votes:1

How To Climb Harder: Basic Training #3: Using the Rings -

Rating:4/5 No. Votes:1

How To Climb Harder: Basic Training #4: Intermediate Peg Boarding -

Rating:4/5 No. Votes:1

How to Climb Harder: Basic Training #5: Intro to Systems Board -

Rating:4/5 No. Votes:1

Online Articles

How Stronger Hands Will Help You Master The Rock - link

Rating:2/5 No. Votes:1

A Beginners Guide to Periodisation in Training - link

Rating:3/5 No. Votes:1

Beastmaker - Finger Training - link

Rating:5/5 No. Votes:1

Starting Out Indoors â Training No.2 - link

Rating:0/5 No. Votes:1

Hand and Foot Care - link

Rating:4/5 No. Votes:1

How to Heal Elbow Tendonitis - link

Rating:4/5 No. Votes:1

How to 'Warm Up' for Climbing - link

Rating:4/5 No. Votes:1

Climbing Shoulder Injuries - Exercises and Tips - link

Rating:0/5 No. Votes:1

Progression and Transgression Hang Boards: A Way To More Power? - link

Rating:5/5 No. Votes:1

Beastmaker 2000 Fingerboard Training Plan - link

Rating:4/5 No. Votes:1

Body Tension Training - link

Rating:4/5 No. Votes:1

Beastmaker 1000 Fingerboard Training Plan - link

Rating:4/5 No. Votes:1

Mental Skills

Psychological and mental skills for climbing performance

Blog Posts

Imagery Scripts: A practical Introduction - link

Rating:4/5 No. Votes:1

Is there such a thing as Natural Talent? - link

Rating:4/5 No. Votes:1

Do you Dream of White Horses or is it just a Goal? - link

Rating:0/5 No. Votes:1

Focusing on Success - link

Rating:4/5 No. Votes:1

Self Talk: The Basics - link

Rating:0/5 No. Votes:1

When I get pumped/scared/stressed I lose my footwork technique - link

Rating:0/5 No. Votes:1

Leader Fall Training - link

Rating:3/5 No. Votes:1

Self-Belief - link

Rating:3/5 No. Votes:1

Imagery â A new Outlook for Climbing - link

Rating:5/5 No. Votes:1

Redpointing, Onsighting and pre-performance routines - link

Rating:0/5 No. Votes:1

Relaxation Techniques - link

Rating:5/5 No. Votes:1

Proper Planning and Preparation prevents poor performance - link

Rating:3/5 No. Votes:1

Imagery Scripts: A practical Introduction - link

Rating:3/5 No. Votes:1

Imagery Scripts: Climbing Content - link

Rating:0/5 No. Votes:1

Imagery Scripts: Bouldering Content - link

Rating:4/5 No. Votes:1

Failure: Is Not an Option? - link

Rating:3/5 No. Votes:1

Online Videos

Listening Meditation -

Rating:4/5 No. Votes:1

Chris Sharma: Letting Go // Inside Game Episode 1 -

Rating:4/5 No. Votes:1

Steph Davis: Fear // Inside Game Episode 2 -

Rating:4/5 No. Votes:1

Dean Potter: Focus // Inside Game Episode 3 -

Rating:4/5 No. Votes:1

Paul Robinson: Breath // Inside Game Episode 4 -

Rating:4/5 No. Votes:1

Dean Potter: Death // Inside Game Episode 5 -

Rating:4/5 No. Votes:1

Chris Sharma: Mindfulness // Inside Game Episode 8 -

Rating:4/5 No. Votes:1

Jacinda Hunter: Balance // Inside Game Episode 6 -

Rating:4/5 No. Votes:1

Yogaslackers: Teamwork // Inside Game Episode 7 -

Rating:4/5 No. Votes:1

Online Articles

Training For Climbing: Fear of Falling and Anxiety - link

Rating:4/5 No. Votes:1

How Confidence Can Improve Your Performance - link

Rating:5/5 No. Votes:1

The Fourth B in the 3 Bâs of Technique - link

Rating:5/5 No. Votes:1

10 Mental Skills of a Successful Cimber - link

Rating:5/5 No. Votes:1

Route Reading - link

Rating:4/5 No. Votes:1

Breathing Meditation - link

Rating:4/5 No. Votes:1

Print Articles

Head Coach - link - CLIMB - Oct 2010

Rating:5/5 No. Votes:1

Technique

Movement skills and climbign techniques

Blog Posts

Accuracy and Precision - link

Rating:4/5 No. Votes:1

Online Videos

Crack School #6 - Taping Up -

Rating:5/5 No. Votes:1

Crack School #1 - Finger Cracks -

Rating:5/5 No. Votes:1

Crack School #2 - Hand Cracks -

Rating:5/5 No. Votes:1

Crack School #3 - Off Width Cracks -

Rating:5/5 No. Votes:1

Crack School #4 - Fist Cracks -

Rating:5/5 No. Votes:1

adidas Outdoor: Shauna Coxsey on Footwork -

Rating:4/5 No. Votes:1

adidas Outdoor: Shauna Coxsey on Dynos -

Rating:3/5 No. Votes:1

How To Climb Harder: Climbing Fundamentals #1: The 3Bs of Technique -

Rating:4/5 No. Votes:1

How To Climb Harder: Climbing Fundamentals #2: Precise and Accurate Feet -

Rating:4/5 No. Votes:1

How to Climb Harder: Climbing Fundamentals #3: Foot Swapping -

Rating:4/5 No. Votes:1

Wild Country Crack School with the Wideboyz - Episode 7 - Advanced Fingers -

Rating:4/5 No. Votes:1

Online Articles

Boot: The Foundation of Good Technique - link

Rating:5/5 No. Votes:1

Balance: The key to efficiency - link

Rating:5/5 No. Votes:1

Body Position: The final part of efficiency - link

Rating:4/5 No. Votes:1

Use your feet! - link

Rating:4/5 No. Votes:1

Training to Become a Better Climber Part 1 - The Building Blocks - link

Rating:4/5 No. Votes:1

Movement Improvement: A three-part guide to taking control of your climbing technique - link

Rating:4/5 No. Votes:1

Article Series: Technique Tips â Part 3: Aretes - link

Rating:4/5 No. Votes:1

Article Series: Technique Tips - Article 1: Overhangs - link

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Article Series: Technique Tips - Article 2: Slabs - link

Rating:4/5 No. Votes:1

Safety

Ropework and climbing euqipment use

Blog Posts

Top Tip: Lowering Off from the top of the cliff - link

Rating:4/5 No. Votes:1

Top Tip: Abseil Stations - link

Rating:0/5 No. Votes:1

Moving Outside for the Indoor Climber - link

Rating:3/5 No. Votes:1

Equipment Care and Maintenance - link

Rating:4/5 No. Votes:1

Online Videos

Crack School #5 - Gear Placement -

Rating:5/5 No. Votes:1

escape the system -

Rating:4/5 No. Votes:1

Rope Rescue Skills Lowering past a knot with HMS -

Rating:4/5 No. Votes:1

Lowering Past a Knot -

Rating:4/5 No. Votes:1

Prussiking Up a Rope -

Rating:4/5 No. Votes:1

How to pass a knot on an abseil -

Rating:4/5 No. Votes:1

Assisted Hoist -

Rating:4/5 No. Votes:1

Online Articles

Rope Rescue for Rock Climber - link

Rating:0/5 No. Votes:1

Starting Out Indoors â Learning to Lead â No. 3 - link

Rating:4/5 No. Votes:1

Learn to tie the Edwards bowline - link

Rating:4/5 No. Votes:1

Washing Ropes - link

Rating:4/5 No. Votes:1

Everything you wanted to know about abseiling but didn't dare ask - link

Rating:4/5 No. Votes:1

Looking after your Friends - link

Rating:4/5 No. Votes:1

How to Thread a Belay - link

Rating:4/5 No. Votes:1

Everything You Wanted to Know About Ropes - link

Rating:4/5 No. Votes:1

Fall Factors Explained - link

Rating:4/5 No. Votes:1

Belaying â From the 'Rope Loop' or from the harness 'Belay Loop'? - link

Rating:4/5 No. Votes:1

Dynamic Belaying for Sport Climbs - link

Rating:4/5 No. Votes:1

VIDEO: How To Rig a Top Rope - link

Rating:4/5 No. Votes:1

How to equalise anchors at a belay - link

Rating:4/5 No. Votes:1

How to rig an abseil - link

Rating:4/5 No. Votes:1

Surviving Sea-cliff Adventures - link

Rating:4/5 No. Votes:1

Double ropes â what, when, why, where and how! - link

Rating:4/5 No. Votes:1

Happy Traversing for Leader and Second - link

Rating:0/5 No. Votes:1

Self Rescue for Climbers 2 - How to Tie Off a Belay Plate - link

Rating:4/5 No. Votes:1

HOW TO: Make A Mountain First Aid Kit - link

Rating:0/5 No. Votes:1

Ten Top Tips For Staying Alive - link

Rating:4/5 No. Votes:1

Ten Top Tips for Better Belaying - link

Rating:4/5 No. Votes:1

Buying Your First Climbing Rack - link

Rating:4/5 No. Votes:1

BEGINNERS ROCK CLIMBING ARTICLE: PLACING WIRES - link

Rating:4/5 No. Votes:1

BEGINNERS ROCK CLIMBING ARTICLE: PLACING HEXES - link

Rating:4/5 No. Votes:1

BEGINNERS ROCK CLIMBING ARTICLE: PLACING CAMMING DEVICES - link

Rating:4/5 No. Votes:1

DVD's

Self Rescue for Climbers - link

Rating:4/5 No. Votes:1

Coaching

Effective coaching and instructional skills

Blog Posts

What Areas are Blind, Hidden or Unknown to You? - link

Rating:3/5 No. Votes:1

Mountain Leader Training: Environment Today - link

Rating:4/5 No. Votes:1

Every Climb Counts - link

Rating:3/5 No. Votes:1

Online Articles

Coaching: The New Buzz Word, but what does it mean? - link

Rating:5/5 No. Votes:1

Coaching in Adventure Sports - link

Rating:3/5 No. Votes:1

The Outdoor leader: A Modern Perspective on Leadership - link

Rating:5/5 No. Votes:1

Teaching Lead Climbing Set Ups - link

Rating:5/5 No. Votes:1

Teaching Leading: Soft Skills, Risk Management and Decision Making - link

Rating:5/5 No. Votes:1

How Toâ¦â¦. Pass Your SPA - link

Rating:5/5 No. Votes:1

General

Covers more than one area

Blog Posts

Climbing Fitness - link

Rating:0/5 No. Votes:1

Online Articles

The Art of Failure - link

Rating:5/5 No. Votes:1

100 things you learn from experience - link

Rating:4/5 No. Votes:1

5 Things You Can Do to Improve Your Bouldering - link

Rating:4/5 No. Votes:1

5 Things You Can Do at the Climbing Wall to Improve Your Outdoor Leading - link

Rating:4/5 No. Votes:1

Training - Why Bother? - link

Rating:4/5 No. Votes:1

Training to Become a Better Climber Part 2 - Severe to HVS - link

Rating:4/5 No. Votes:1

Training to Become a Better Climber Part 3 - E1/6b/V2 - link

Rating:4/5 No. Votes:1

Training to Become a Better Climber Part 4 - E2/6c/V4 - link

Rating:4/5 No. Votes:1

Improve Your Climbing By James McHaffie - link

Rating:4/5 No. Votes:1

Training to Become a Better Climber - Part 5 (Applies to V5+/f7a and up/E4+) - link

Rating:4/5 No. Votes:1

Ten Ways To Succeed on a Trad Route by Hazel Findlay - link

Rating:4/5 No. Votes:1

Books

How To Climb Harder - Mark Reeves - Pesda Press - ISBN:978-1-906095-11-6 - link

Rating:5/5 No. Votes:2